Day Sixteen: Fairbanks, AK

Today I decided to take it easy. Rather than looking up interesting things to do on the internet, I decided to talk with people. At the hostel in the morning, I met man who had been called the most cynical man in Fairbanks by the other hostelers. I think they were right because he painted a grim picture of tourism around Fairbanks. My goal was (and still is) to prove him wrong.

I left the hostel around around 8 AM, and drove rather aimlessly toward what I hoped was the city center. I saw a sign. The sign said "WE HAVE COOKIES." Now I love cookies, so of course I stopped. There I found the Bun on the Run.

From 630-2011

I found that the Bun had been serving baked goods out of a food truck here in Fairbanks for 23 years. I was very impressed. I may consider trying to open a baked goods truck in the future.

Next I drove around some more and wandered into the local Wal-Mart supercenter. I was curious about the price of things here in Fairbanks relative to back in Boston. Everything was more expensive than I remember from Boston. For example, the peaches I had been buying for $0.99/lb across the lower 48 were labelled $2.98/lb. A twelve pack of throwback Pepsi was $8! I got some peaches and a chocolate bar labelled "Uganda."

At the checkout counter, I asked the cashier if he would trust getting his hair cut at the Walmart, but he recommended another barber "right around the corner." He seemed very impressed with this barber, claiming that he "specialized" in cutting my hair, so I asked for directions. I tried to find Joe the barber without luck. I gave up after about half an hour and instead tried to find more oil for my car. I stopped by another sushi restaurant and had an "Alaska roll."

From 630-2011

This was good even though the sushi chef admitted that none of his fish came from Alaska. I now have access to all the oil I will need in Fairbanks and beyond though. There are no oil recycling businesses this far north, so all restaurants either throw their oil in the trash or give it away to people like me. This is another reason to like it here.

Turns out this sushi place was right across the street from some corn in buckets.

From 630-2011

I notice plants growing in buckets because I once grew a roof garden at MIT with 100 buckets. Also across the street was a 1974 Mercedes 240D for sale.

From 630-2011

I have been looking for a 1970ish 240D for about a month now, so this was a curious coincidence to say the least. Bucket corn and my dream car (well close anyway) in one place at once... Something was up.

Then I noticed a sign. It said "Just haircuts."

From 630-2011

This was Joe, I just knew it. I walked in, and sure enough, Joe was cutting hair. Joe is a 70ish, African-American from North Carolina. Joe owned the bucket corn and the 240D. Joe's shop was full of plants, some in buckets and some in pots.

From 630-2011

Joe also had Ron Paul DVD's on display.

From 630-2011

Joe's shop attracted an assortment of nice guys who called themselves "fixtures." They were mostly retirees who had earned pensions from years of government work. Joe was their age, but still working hard. One of the fixtures while working on a Sudoku puzzle, exclaimed his frustration. Joe laughed and said, "I hope to see the day that I get to work on a puzzle. I hope to see the day." Joe is a hard working entrepreneur. He let me wander around his car lot and greenhouse/garden after I got my hair cut. I was very impressed.

From 630-2011

From 630-2011

This would never have been possible in Boston. Land prices would limit Joe's shop to a quarter the size with no back or front yard. Here Joe has been able to develop his passions of gardening, barbering, and old cars all at once. This is what I call the authentic life.

Later that day while passing near this shop on the way to a junk yard that had been suggested by a fixture at Joe's shop, I saw a double rainbow:

From 630-2011

I went to the local "Action Auto Parts" junk yard to find an additional spare tire for a potential trip to Prudhoe Bay within the next couple days. I couldn't find a fit for my car, but I am going back tomorrow for a donut if I decide to go north. The road north is 500 miles and is mostly gravel. There is very little civilization along the route, so tires will be very hard to get. I will bring two spares if I go.

Right now it's 10:47 PM in Fairbanks, and the sky is almost as bright as it was at 10:47 AM. I'm off to find a hotel parking lot to sleep in.