Since my last post I have found and moved into an apartment, signed up for electricity service, and started populating it with essential items. I got a great deal on my apartment by finding someone, Tom, who needed to break his lease. An apartment which would have cost more than $1100/month is now mine for $899/month. That is how much rental prices have changed in less than a year here in Houston.
This place was very carefully designed. There are two ponds, three swimming pools, and three parking garages in the complex, but they are tucked away behind several types of trees and shrubs that all seem very healthy.
I signed up for electricity also. Most electricity providers here charge a "service fee" if one's electricity usage falls below a certain amount (usually 500, 800, or 1000 kwh). I object to the policy of charging me more if I use less electricity, so I chose an unadvertised option without a service fee but with 20% wind energy. I may end up paying slightly more than I would have with other plans for the summer months, but during autumn when I won't be using climate control very much, I expect my choice will prove its value.
I have been entertaining myself by trying to purchase household goods that aren't made in China. Of course it's easy to go to Target and get everything I need (forks, plates, tables, chairs, towels, rugs, etc.), but anyone who knows me knows that I am more into the path less travelled. So how do I go that route for utensils? Thrift stores and IKEA.
So far I've been to several local "thrift stores." These aren't common in Boston, but I did visit them when I lived in Alabama. When old people die, their stuff sometimes ends up at these stores. Old people bought really classy things back in the 1900-1980 time frame, and I've been recycling some of their stuff.
So far I have a few dishes and mugs made in Germany, some made in England, and some really nice ones made in Japan. Just today I found a near-complete set of silver-plated silverware from 1948 (made in USA). At IKEA I found a dustpan made in the Czech Republic, towels made in India, a tuperware bowl made in Italy, and a rug made in Egypt.
So it is possible to buy things that aren't made in China.
I driving from Boston to Houston by way of Alaska from 6/15 to 7/? . I have wanted to drive to Alaska for years but have been busy with other things. Now is my chance! I will be posting photos and videos from the road. EDIT: This is now Matt's general purpose travel/photo blog.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Houston!
After more than 12,000 miles of driving, I have arrived in Houston. My perspective on the place is heavily influenced by my time in Boston... I feel that I should compare by providing some anecdotes.
Driving south on I-35 from Minneapolis, I passed through Dallas on the way to Houston. I had been to Dallas many times before to visit my ex-girlfriend and still close friend, Jennifer. I ate at my favorite BBQ restaurant there in Dallas. It's called Sonny Bryant's Smokehouse. It's high quality BBQ.
Jennifer's parents are good people, so I decided I would pay them a visit. I called them up to find out that their truck had broken down in Houston a week earlier and they needed a ride to go pick it up, so I stayed the night at their place and rode down to Houston with Jennifer's father, Eric, in the morning.
At this point, my car was not handling the 100+F heat very well. The air conditioning was long-gone, and the car was overheating to some extent, so we rode down with the windows cracked. Clouds protected us from the worst of the heat fortunately, so we were able to arrive with only a minor sweat. Eric picked up his truck and headed home, and I went on to learn my way around the city by running errands.
I found a hotel using hotels.com ($40/night 5 miles from my future office), and decided to get to bed early. I woke up to find my car filled with ants! I had left my windows cracked, and apparently my car is very sweet smelling. These ants were unlike any ants I'd seen before. They looked the same as the ants I had seen growing up in Alabama, but they were faster, MUCH faster, as if they had microprocessor upgrades. This allowed them to fill my car with trails overnight. I still don't know what they found that was so attracting, but I think this is a sure sign that I need to vacuum my car.
I've been hanging out in a local Panera for the free wifi. I was surprised to see a man in a security outfit riding around in a golf cart outside in the parking lot. After seeing this, I have noticed more private security in parking lots around the town. Apparently Houston takes security seriously. This reminds me a bit of Africa, where private security guards protect homes and businesses, only they have AK-47's instead of golf carts.
Driving around the city can be quite dangerous. I have already had several close encounters with motorists who do not respect lanes, signs, or lights. Massachusetts drivers are notorious, but these Houston drivers "just don't give a fuck", and their crumpled automobiles prove it.
But where there are minuses there are always pluses right? I have so far successfully used Houston's craigslist to find the EPA-forbidden Freon R12 refrigerant for my new car for a very good price a few miles outside Houston. I have also been able to find an apartment in a beautiful complex full of beautiful people for the price of my old place in East Cambridge, which left much to be desired.
Cookies are also cheaper than in Boston! Panera cookies cost me $1.49 instead of $1.89+tax in Boston. Whole Foods cookies are $1.19 instead of the $1.39+tax I was getting in Boston. Whole Foods baked goods are slightly different than in Boston, so it's been a nice experience trying new treats.
Buying electricity is also a new experience. Many different companies offer many different rates for electricity in terms of cents per kilowatt hour. I am now considering a 6-month deal for $0.10/kwh.
Houston takes outdoor advertising to a new level. On busy highways, men and women stand in the medians in the 100+F heat waving signs, wearing wedding gowns, or dancing in funny costumes to attract customers to shops in strip malls. I've seen apartment complexes, pizza shops, gold-buyers, and wedding supply shops advertising this way. To me it seems like a hot and dangerous job, but I suppose it is effective. I actually found the apartment complex that I'm living at after seeing a man waving a sign for it on a nearby highway.
I'll likely post more about Houston, along with some deep thoughts that I've been thinking and refining in the next few days. Another post is guaranteed. I'm also considering starting a new blog dedicated to my experiences in attending different churches to meet ladies... I may go to hell for that, but it should make for an interesting blog. Thoughts?
Driving south on I-35 from Minneapolis, I passed through Dallas on the way to Houston. I had been to Dallas many times before to visit my ex-girlfriend and still close friend, Jennifer. I ate at my favorite BBQ restaurant there in Dallas. It's called Sonny Bryant's Smokehouse. It's high quality BBQ.
| From 723-2011 |
Jennifer's parents are good people, so I decided I would pay them a visit. I called them up to find out that their truck had broken down in Houston a week earlier and they needed a ride to go pick it up, so I stayed the night at their place and rode down to Houston with Jennifer's father, Eric, in the morning.
| From 723-2011 |
At this point, my car was not handling the 100+F heat very well. The air conditioning was long-gone, and the car was overheating to some extent, so we rode down with the windows cracked. Clouds protected us from the worst of the heat fortunately, so we were able to arrive with only a minor sweat. Eric picked up his truck and headed home, and I went on to learn my way around the city by running errands.
I found a hotel using hotels.com ($40/night 5 miles from my future office), and decided to get to bed early. I woke up to find my car filled with ants! I had left my windows cracked, and apparently my car is very sweet smelling. These ants were unlike any ants I'd seen before. They looked the same as the ants I had seen growing up in Alabama, but they were faster, MUCH faster, as if they had microprocessor upgrades. This allowed them to fill my car with trails overnight. I still don't know what they found that was so attracting, but I think this is a sure sign that I need to vacuum my car.
I've been hanging out in a local Panera for the free wifi. I was surprised to see a man in a security outfit riding around in a golf cart outside in the parking lot. After seeing this, I have noticed more private security in parking lots around the town. Apparently Houston takes security seriously. This reminds me a bit of Africa, where private security guards protect homes and businesses, only they have AK-47's instead of golf carts.
Driving around the city can be quite dangerous. I have already had several close encounters with motorists who do not respect lanes, signs, or lights. Massachusetts drivers are notorious, but these Houston drivers "just don't give a fuck", and their crumpled automobiles prove it.
But where there are minuses there are always pluses right? I have so far successfully used Houston's craigslist to find the EPA-forbidden Freon R12 refrigerant for my new car for a very good price a few miles outside Houston. I have also been able to find an apartment in a beautiful complex full of beautiful people for the price of my old place in East Cambridge, which left much to be desired.
Cookies are also cheaper than in Boston! Panera cookies cost me $1.49 instead of $1.89+tax in Boston. Whole Foods cookies are $1.19 instead of the $1.39+tax I was getting in Boston. Whole Foods baked goods are slightly different than in Boston, so it's been a nice experience trying new treats.
Buying electricity is also a new experience. Many different companies offer many different rates for electricity in terms of cents per kilowatt hour. I am now considering a 6-month deal for $0.10/kwh.
Houston takes outdoor advertising to a new level. On busy highways, men and women stand in the medians in the 100+F heat waving signs, wearing wedding gowns, or dancing in funny costumes to attract customers to shops in strip malls. I've seen apartment complexes, pizza shops, gold-buyers, and wedding supply shops advertising this way. To me it seems like a hot and dangerous job, but I suppose it is effective. I actually found the apartment complex that I'm living at after seeing a man waving a sign for it on a nearby highway.
I'll likely post more about Houston, along with some deep thoughts that I've been thinking and refining in the next few days. Another post is guaranteed. I'm also considering starting a new blog dedicated to my experiences in attending different churches to meet ladies... I may go to hell for that, but it should make for an interesting blog. Thoughts?
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Regina, SK to Winnipeg, MB to Holcombe, WI
After leaving Saskatoon I went straight to Regina, the capital city of Saskatchewan. It was very similar to Saskatoon in a lot of ways. The people seemed similarly impoverished and stressed out for the most part, but I did find one happy person that made the visit worthwhile. I took a tour of the Saskatoon Legislature building, and the tour guide there was a very honest and peaceful guy. During the course of the tour, he said many things that I think would normally have gotten him fired, but he trusted me for some reason. I was the only person in the tour group. He is not a big fan of the monarchy, which in fact does exert a great deal of control over Canada, even though most people perceive that Canada is totally independent. Anyway the building is beautiful as you can see for yourself.
A man-made lake was built around it, and there's a park around the lake.
It's a very peaceful environment, at least in the summer. It occurred to me that my walk around that park was probably one of the last times that I will walk around outside without sweating this summer.
From Regina I went east to Winnipeg. I had heard a lot about Winnipeg listening to CBC Radio 3, a radio channel that is dedicated to the independent upcoming rock bands of Canada. It's a hip kind of place. It also has another beautiful legislature building. I arrived 10 minutes after the last tour unfortunately.
I wandered from the legislature to the area of town called, "The Forks." This is an area where two rivers come together. Many people were gathered around tables eating and dancing under a gazebo. I don't think I've seen anything like this in Boston. People just randomly got up and started dancing.
I left there late at night and crossed the border shortly before midnight. My entries into the U.S. have been much simpler than those into Canada. My car was searched again at the Canada/Alaska line, and I was again questioned about the amount of money I had in my bank account. I suppose they want me to buy lots of stuff in Canada!
I slept at a rest stop and changed my oil in the morning after the Falcon made it to 275,000 miles. Then I went on to Holcombe, WI. I had located a 1971 Mercedes 220D car in excellent condition for a fair price. Even though I love the Falcon and I do intend to keep it, I need a presentable car for the time being, and the Falcon is anything but. It has many battle scars and many electrical and mechanical issues, so I needed a new car, and I bought this one. The man who sold it to me owns an autobody shop, and he repainted it himself in 1985. It's been in storage since then, and the paint is extremely shiny. I think it's beautiful. Now I can stop searching craigslist for extremely rare cars!
I am now outside a Panera on the outskirts of Minneapolis headed south for Houston. This is the final stretch of my journey. I will probably not be doing any touring, but I will be thinking of a summary of my trip which will include some important deep thoughts that I have been able to think by pursuing this journey. I promise there will be at least one more post to this blog!
| From 717-2011 |
A man-made lake was built around it, and there's a park around the lake.
| From 717-2011 |
It's a very peaceful environment, at least in the summer. It occurred to me that my walk around that park was probably one of the last times that I will walk around outside without sweating this summer.
From Regina I went east to Winnipeg. I had heard a lot about Winnipeg listening to CBC Radio 3, a radio channel that is dedicated to the independent upcoming rock bands of Canada. It's a hip kind of place. It also has another beautiful legislature building. I arrived 10 minutes after the last tour unfortunately.
| From 717-2011 |
I wandered from the legislature to the area of town called, "The Forks." This is an area where two rivers come together. Many people were gathered around tables eating and dancing under a gazebo. I don't think I've seen anything like this in Boston. People just randomly got up and started dancing.
| From 717-2011 |
I left there late at night and crossed the border shortly before midnight. My entries into the U.S. have been much simpler than those into Canada. My car was searched again at the Canada/Alaska line, and I was again questioned about the amount of money I had in my bank account. I suppose they want me to buy lots of stuff in Canada!
I slept at a rest stop and changed my oil in the morning after the Falcon made it to 275,000 miles. Then I went on to Holcombe, WI. I had located a 1971 Mercedes 220D car in excellent condition for a fair price. Even though I love the Falcon and I do intend to keep it, I need a presentable car for the time being, and the Falcon is anything but. It has many battle scars and many electrical and mechanical issues, so I needed a new car, and I bought this one. The man who sold it to me owns an autobody shop, and he repainted it himself in 1985. It's been in storage since then, and the paint is extremely shiny. I think it's beautiful. Now I can stop searching craigslist for extremely rare cars!
| From 717-2011 |
I am now outside a Panera on the outskirts of Minneapolis headed south for Houston. This is the final stretch of my journey. I will probably not be doing any touring, but I will be thinking of a summary of my trip which will include some important deep thoughts that I have been able to think by pursuing this journey. I promise there will be at least one more post to this blog!
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Across Canada into Wisconsin
I am now writing from Regina, Saskatchewan where I arrived just a few minutes ago. The trip through the Yukon and British Columbia was much more scenic with a little sunshine. It had been cloudy/rainy on my way north. I took a bath in an ice-cold stream something like the one in the photo below. I wouldn't bathe in this one, it's a little too beautiful and fast moving.
I also stopped by Muncho Lake along the way.
Some bears were foraging along the roadside. I saw three in total. Around each bear RV's, cars, and motorcycles would gather to observe, but no one seemed to care about the beautiful mountain streams or lakes. No one stopped to take photos with me at these places for some reason.
As I came out of the mountains and into the plains, the most beautiful sites were the crops growing along the side of the road. Rapeseed, the plant that produces Canola oil, is a very popular crop here. Canadians are very proud of their Canola oil. A trucker at a truck stop told me that one quart of pure Canola oil would clean out all the soot inside my diesel engine... The blossoms are bright yellow and smell vaguely like roses. Driving on a highway surrounded by the crops with my windows down, the scent is overpowering sometimes.
Anyway I made it through the entire Alaska highway in two days. This time I didn't stop in Edmonton, but went straight through to Saskatoon. I checked out the University there on the advice of a girl at a visitor center who said they had a synchotron that I should see. Unfortunately everything seemed very closed for the summer. The town of Saskatoon also seemed troubled to me. In the downtown area a group of teenagers gathered around a bus stop and were being questioned by a man in a "SECURITY" shirt. Drivers there were also very aggressive, and there were no souvenir shops according to many people I asked!
I always ask people why they live where they live when I get a chance. In Alberta there was oil, but in Saskatchewan there was no obvious reason. A gas station attendant told me that the cost of living is much lower in SK, but I asked him what he meant since I had seen prices for food and fuel were both lower in Alberta. He explained that the cost of SK health insurance is much lower than that in Alberta... Hmm.
So I left for Regina. Hopefully tomorrow I will have better luck as a tourist.
| From 715-2011 |
| From 715-2011 |
I also stopped by Muncho Lake along the way.
| From 715-2011 |
| From 715-2011 |
Some bears were foraging along the roadside. I saw three in total. Around each bear RV's, cars, and motorcycles would gather to observe, but no one seemed to care about the beautiful mountain streams or lakes. No one stopped to take photos with me at these places for some reason.
| From 715-2011 |
As I came out of the mountains and into the plains, the most beautiful sites were the crops growing along the side of the road. Rapeseed, the plant that produces Canola oil, is a very popular crop here. Canadians are very proud of their Canola oil. A trucker at a truck stop told me that one quart of pure Canola oil would clean out all the soot inside my diesel engine... The blossoms are bright yellow and smell vaguely like roses. Driving on a highway surrounded by the crops with my windows down, the scent is overpowering sometimes.
| From 715-2011 |
| From 715-2011 |
Anyway I made it through the entire Alaska highway in two days. This time I didn't stop in Edmonton, but went straight through to Saskatoon. I checked out the University there on the advice of a girl at a visitor center who said they had a synchotron that I should see. Unfortunately everything seemed very closed for the summer. The town of Saskatoon also seemed troubled to me. In the downtown area a group of teenagers gathered around a bus stop and were being questioned by a man in a "SECURITY" shirt. Drivers there were also very aggressive, and there were no souvenir shops according to many people I asked!
I always ask people why they live where they live when I get a chance. In Alberta there was oil, but in Saskatchewan there was no obvious reason. A gas station attendant told me that the cost of living is much lower in SK, but I asked him what he meant since I had seen prices for food and fuel were both lower in Alberta. He explained that the cost of SK health insurance is much lower than that in Alberta... Hmm.
So I left for Regina. Hopefully tomorrow I will have better luck as a tourist.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Heading South
I spent Monday checking out the Anchorage Museum and driving on some scenic routes around the city. I saw some beautiful mountains even though the weather was rainy and foggy.
In the process though my car started shitting out flat tires like a dog with unwanted puppies. I was looking for the headquarters of the High Frequency Active Auroral Research Program when I heard the sound of a flat tire again. HAARP is a top secret military research program dedicated officially to inducing and studying atmospheric phenomena. It has also been accused of weather manipulation. I'll let you decide for yourself. The clouds around HAARP were unlike those I have seen before.
The Anchorage Museum is full of information about the gold rushes and oil rushes of Alaska's past. I found it interesting that the Trans-Alaska pipeline was announced in 1969 well before the energy crisis of the 1970's and also well before it had regulatory approval from the U.S. and State of Alaska. Many millions of dollars of pipeline was ordered well before any approvals had been granted. That's quite an expense unless the approval is already guaranteed somehow... Hmm... Also they had some beautiful paintings of Alaska. I liked this one:
Driving back through the Yukon I found the weather much improved over that I experienced my first time through. I stopped by a crystal clear mountain lake to take some photos.
While I was down at the lake, a Royal Canadian Mounted Police car pulled up behind my car as it was parked illegally on the roadside. The officer looked around for me and asked "Is this your car!?" I said yes expecting to be yelled at for parking illegally on the roadside and probably fined. He said "Is everything OK?!" I said yes, and he left. I wish more all my police interactions were so friendly...
Now I am in Whitehorse, Yukon, which is one of my favorite places of the whole journey. It's just big enough to have everything I need here, and just small enough to avoid getting a big city vibe. I'll be loading up on vegetable oil here soon and heading out to drive until I don't want to drive any more. I'll likely take the route through Saskatchewan and Manitoba this time, and if I make it all the way, I'll have been to every Canadian province except Newfoundland/Labradour.
| From 712-2011 |
In the process though my car started shitting out flat tires like a dog with unwanted puppies. I was looking for the headquarters of the High Frequency Active Auroral Research Program when I heard the sound of a flat tire again. HAARP is a top secret military research program dedicated officially to inducing and studying atmospheric phenomena. It has also been accused of weather manipulation. I'll let you decide for yourself. The clouds around HAARP were unlike those I have seen before.
| From 712-2011 |
| From 712-2011 |
The Anchorage Museum is full of information about the gold rushes and oil rushes of Alaska's past. I found it interesting that the Trans-Alaska pipeline was announced in 1969 well before the energy crisis of the 1970's and also well before it had regulatory approval from the U.S. and State of Alaska. Many millions of dollars of pipeline was ordered well before any approvals had been granted. That's quite an expense unless the approval is already guaranteed somehow... Hmm... Also they had some beautiful paintings of Alaska. I liked this one:
| From 712-2011 |
Driving back through the Yukon I found the weather much improved over that I experienced my first time through. I stopped by a crystal clear mountain lake to take some photos.
| From 712-2011 |
While I was down at the lake, a Royal Canadian Mounted Police car pulled up behind my car as it was parked illegally on the roadside. The officer looked around for me and asked "Is this your car!?" I said yes expecting to be yelled at for parking illegally on the roadside and probably fined. He said "Is everything OK?!" I said yes, and he left. I wish more all my police interactions were so friendly...
Now I am in Whitehorse, Yukon, which is one of my favorite places of the whole journey. It's just big enough to have everything I need here, and just small enough to avoid getting a big city vibe. I'll be loading up on vegetable oil here soon and heading out to drive until I don't want to drive any more. I'll likely take the route through Saskatchewan and Manitoba this time, and if I make it all the way, I'll have been to every Canadian province except Newfoundland/Labradour.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Escaping Fairbanks
I left Fairbanks for Pump Station 4 (the closest reference point to my car on the Dalton Highway) on Tuesday at 6 AM. A tour bus company had agreed to carry me up and back with all of my belongings from the car if necessary. I had about 20 hours to rescue the Falcon or evacuate with everything of value from my car.
I started work immediately, but before I could patch the oil pan, I had to first clean out all the rocks that had collected inside after the crash. There were thousands of pebbles and sand-size particles inside my engine, and that's very bad for it.
I cleaned out as much as I could and began applying the Liquid Steel. It was my first time using liquid steel, and I was happy with its performance other than its ability to stick to things. It didn't stick well to the aluminum oil pan in my car, making things difficult.
After about seven hours of patching and fighting thousands of mosquitoes, I had sealed the oil pan reasonably well. Of course there could be some small leaks I thought, but I had plenty of oil to replace any that leaked out. I would at least be able to make it to the nearest town, Coldfoot, 100 miles away, I thought. It was fragile though, and any impact could break the patch and cause a huge leak.
I left the patch to harden overnight (although there really was no night) and slept in the car. The sun passed behind a large mountain for a few hours, but by 7 AM the temperature had risen to about 55 degrees, and I was ready to go. I filled the pan with oil to witness some very small leaks. I applied some extra patching where I could, and the leaks stopped.
I thought to myself, "If this doesn't work, this could be one of the last times I drive the Falcon, so I should enjoy it." The car made it four miles before something dislodged the patch enough to cause a leak that made the check engine light come on. Luckily I had gone uphill, and I coasted back to the place I had been with the engine off for most of the way. There was no way I would get the Falcon out with this engine.
There is very little traffic on the Dalton Highway. Only about 2-3 cars and 2-3 large trucks pass any point in an hour, but I thought that there was a chance I might see a tow truck passing by. I waited and saw nothing but large trucks filled with rocks, pipes, or pallets.
I had to be prepared for the tour bus arriving in the afternoon, so sadly I bagged up all of my belongings from the Falcon and got them ready to load. I said goodbye to the car that had served me well for almost ten years. I remembered all the places it had been, the hours I had spent in my car, driving, sleeping, singing, laughing, crying. I remembered the people who'd ridden in my car, the hitch-hikers, the friends, and all the beautiful women.
In my mind I had abandoned the car when I saw a truck coming. I had to do something, so I waved to the driver. He stopped. I asked him if there was any way I could load my car into his trailer. He said no, but there might be another truck coming that could help. I waved to this truck, carrying an empty flatbed trailer, and asked the same question. He said he had a soccer game to get to, so he couldn't help. I told him that I would pay him. He said maybe.
He got out and came to my car, and we came up with a plan. My car would be saved if it worked! While I steered and applied the brakes in my car, he towed my car with a chain to a loading dock 20 miles away. I drove the car onto his trailer, and we headed south. I thanked Aaron and Jim profusely for helping me load the car and take it back to Fairbanks. Aaron said, "Well, you had the right bumper sticker." My Ron Paul 2008 bumper sticker had saved my car!
I rode with Aaron, a real Ice Road Trucker (a show on the Discovery Channel now) for more than 300 miles back to Fairbanks. Aaron stocked freeze dried food, and at least two gallons of water at all times, because anything can happen on the Dalton Highway, especially in the winter when the whole road freezes and truckers drive on a thick layer of ice.
We docked at an abandoned lot in Fairbanks, and I coasted the Falcon to a nearby repair shop. Aaron left with time to make it to his daughter's soccer game. I thought the problem was solved, as I had the new oil pan arriving the next day. I thought there was no reason I couldn't have these guys repair the Falcon, but I was wrong.
Arriving at the repair shop, covered in dirt from the Dalton Highway:
Mercedes is not a popular brand in Fairbanks for some reason. There is no dealership, and I learned from the owner of the repair shop the next day that only one man in town will repair a Mercedes, and that he was on vacation. I had to do the job myself if I wanted to get out of Fairbanks any time soon.
I needed things that I didn't have in order to be able to install the new oil pan, but I could get these things. I called AAA and had the car towed to an abandoned lot near an auto parts store. I needed an engine lift, so I rented one from a local shop and rented a UHaul moving truck to tow the lift.
Repair site:
I worked for about 20 hours there, removing the 40 bolts that were holding the oil pan in, removing the oil cooler, and some parts of the suspension that would prevent a new pan from being installed. I lifted the engine about 7 inches to get the old pan out and the new one in.
The wrecked oil pan:
During this time many friendly people stopped to say hello and offer their encouragement. I met local mechanics who offered advice, an older couple who gave me some pastries, and younger men who offered tools. This is much different than in Cambridge, where when I repaired my car in public, my neighbors had called the police.
I returned the engine lift and UHaul within the 24 hour deadline, and got the car running 26 hours after I had begun. I was covered in oil and dirt.
I spent one last night in Fairbanks at the Backpackers' Hostel and said goodbye to the people I had met there and left for Denali and Anchorage in the morning. I didn't stay long in Denali. Honestly I am beginning to lose appreciation for the beautiful scenery that had drawn me here. I did see a huge moose crossing the road less than a mile in front of me and a family of ducks also crossing the road in front of me, but didn't see much wildlife other than this.
Scenery of Denali National Park:
Now I am in Anchorage. Although I have been here only a short time, I must say that I prefer Fairbanks. Although Anchorage is larger, the people of Fairbanks are younger, fitter, stronger, and more lively than the people that I've seen here. Perhaps the reduced water fluoridation in Fairbanks explains some of that.
For example, I will describe the differences in the two cities' Wendy's restaurants (Wendy's has free wifi so I hang out there a lot). Fairbanks Wendy's is staffed exclusively by under 30's. The back room is a riot of activity, jokes, yelling, screaming, and laughing. The people at the Fairbank's Wendy's really enjoy their jobs, but the food gets made quickly all the same. Here in Anchorage, the staff is older and much more miserable. This is just one example... The Barnes and Noble (also free wifi) comparison is much the same.
Anyway this is the story of how the Falcon was saved. Alaska challenged me during the past few days. It almost took from me one of my most prized possessions. There were many times when I wanted to give up and fly out, but I saw that as accepting defeat, as an admission that Alaska was a challenge that I couldn't handle.
For now I'm going to plan some tourist activities and hope I make it out of Alaska without any more disasters.
I started work immediately, but before I could patch the oil pan, I had to first clean out all the rocks that had collected inside after the crash. There were thousands of pebbles and sand-size particles inside my engine, and that's very bad for it.
| From 710-2011 |
I cleaned out as much as I could and began applying the Liquid Steel. It was my first time using liquid steel, and I was happy with its performance other than its ability to stick to things. It didn't stick well to the aluminum oil pan in my car, making things difficult.
After about seven hours of patching and fighting thousands of mosquitoes, I had sealed the oil pan reasonably well. Of course there could be some small leaks I thought, but I had plenty of oil to replace any that leaked out. I would at least be able to make it to the nearest town, Coldfoot, 100 miles away, I thought. It was fragile though, and any impact could break the patch and cause a huge leak.
| From 710-2011 |
I left the patch to harden overnight (although there really was no night) and slept in the car. The sun passed behind a large mountain for a few hours, but by 7 AM the temperature had risen to about 55 degrees, and I was ready to go. I filled the pan with oil to witness some very small leaks. I applied some extra patching where I could, and the leaks stopped.
I thought to myself, "If this doesn't work, this could be one of the last times I drive the Falcon, so I should enjoy it." The car made it four miles before something dislodged the patch enough to cause a leak that made the check engine light come on. Luckily I had gone uphill, and I coasted back to the place I had been with the engine off for most of the way. There was no way I would get the Falcon out with this engine.
There is very little traffic on the Dalton Highway. Only about 2-3 cars and 2-3 large trucks pass any point in an hour, but I thought that there was a chance I might see a tow truck passing by. I waited and saw nothing but large trucks filled with rocks, pipes, or pallets.
| From 710-2011 |
I had to be prepared for the tour bus arriving in the afternoon, so sadly I bagged up all of my belongings from the Falcon and got them ready to load. I said goodbye to the car that had served me well for almost ten years. I remembered all the places it had been, the hours I had spent in my car, driving, sleeping, singing, laughing, crying. I remembered the people who'd ridden in my car, the hitch-hikers, the friends, and all the beautiful women.
In my mind I had abandoned the car when I saw a truck coming. I had to do something, so I waved to the driver. He stopped. I asked him if there was any way I could load my car into his trailer. He said no, but there might be another truck coming that could help. I waved to this truck, carrying an empty flatbed trailer, and asked the same question. He said he had a soccer game to get to, so he couldn't help. I told him that I would pay him. He said maybe.
He got out and came to my car, and we came up with a plan. My car would be saved if it worked! While I steered and applied the brakes in my car, he towed my car with a chain to a loading dock 20 miles away. I drove the car onto his trailer, and we headed south. I thanked Aaron and Jim profusely for helping me load the car and take it back to Fairbanks. Aaron said, "Well, you had the right bumper sticker." My Ron Paul 2008 bumper sticker had saved my car!
I rode with Aaron, a real Ice Road Trucker (a show on the Discovery Channel now) for more than 300 miles back to Fairbanks. Aaron stocked freeze dried food, and at least two gallons of water at all times, because anything can happen on the Dalton Highway, especially in the winter when the whole road freezes and truckers drive on a thick layer of ice.
We docked at an abandoned lot in Fairbanks, and I coasted the Falcon to a nearby repair shop. Aaron left with time to make it to his daughter's soccer game. I thought the problem was solved, as I had the new oil pan arriving the next day. I thought there was no reason I couldn't have these guys repair the Falcon, but I was wrong.
Arriving at the repair shop, covered in dirt from the Dalton Highway:
| From 710-2011 |
Mercedes is not a popular brand in Fairbanks for some reason. There is no dealership, and I learned from the owner of the repair shop the next day that only one man in town will repair a Mercedes, and that he was on vacation. I had to do the job myself if I wanted to get out of Fairbanks any time soon.
I needed things that I didn't have in order to be able to install the new oil pan, but I could get these things. I called AAA and had the car towed to an abandoned lot near an auto parts store. I needed an engine lift, so I rented one from a local shop and rented a UHaul moving truck to tow the lift.
Repair site:
| From 710-2011 |
I worked for about 20 hours there, removing the 40 bolts that were holding the oil pan in, removing the oil cooler, and some parts of the suspension that would prevent a new pan from being installed. I lifted the engine about 7 inches to get the old pan out and the new one in.
The wrecked oil pan:
| From 710-2011 |
During this time many friendly people stopped to say hello and offer their encouragement. I met local mechanics who offered advice, an older couple who gave me some pastries, and younger men who offered tools. This is much different than in Cambridge, where when I repaired my car in public, my neighbors had called the police.
I returned the engine lift and UHaul within the 24 hour deadline, and got the car running 26 hours after I had begun. I was covered in oil and dirt.
| From 710-2011 |
I spent one last night in Fairbanks at the Backpackers' Hostel and said goodbye to the people I had met there and left for Denali and Anchorage in the morning. I didn't stay long in Denali. Honestly I am beginning to lose appreciation for the beautiful scenery that had drawn me here. I did see a huge moose crossing the road less than a mile in front of me and a family of ducks also crossing the road in front of me, but didn't see much wildlife other than this.
Scenery of Denali National Park:
| From 710-2011 |
Now I am in Anchorage. Although I have been here only a short time, I must say that I prefer Fairbanks. Although Anchorage is larger, the people of Fairbanks are younger, fitter, stronger, and more lively than the people that I've seen here. Perhaps the reduced water fluoridation in Fairbanks explains some of that.
For example, I will describe the differences in the two cities' Wendy's restaurants (Wendy's has free wifi so I hang out there a lot). Fairbanks Wendy's is staffed exclusively by under 30's. The back room is a riot of activity, jokes, yelling, screaming, and laughing. The people at the Fairbank's Wendy's really enjoy their jobs, but the food gets made quickly all the same. Here in Anchorage, the staff is older and much more miserable. This is just one example... The Barnes and Noble (also free wifi) comparison is much the same.
Anyway this is the story of how the Falcon was saved. Alaska challenged me during the past few days. It almost took from me one of my most prized possessions. There were many times when I wanted to give up and fly out, but I saw that as accepting defeat, as an admission that Alaska was a challenge that I couldn't handle.
For now I'm going to plan some tourist activities and hope I make it out of Alaska without any more disasters.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Day Eighteen and Nineteen: Disaster and Hitching Back to Fairbanks
The scenery on the drive north was amazing.
The Dalton Highway was built during the construction of the Trans-Alaska oil pipeline. The pipeline is visible from the highway for most of the 300 miles north to Prudhoe Bay.
I crossed the Arctic Circle on land for the first time.
There were many wildflowers.
The Brooks mountain range separates the oil fields of Prudhoe Bay from the rest of Alaska to the south. Fresh snow was visible on some of these peaks.
I was warned that the Dawson Highway was dangerous. The highway is mostly gravel but also mostly mud/dirt in some places. I made it through these parts just fine, without even a flat tire for which I was doubly-prepared. It was the giant rock in the middle of the road in a construction zone that smashed the falcon's oil pan. Its oil spewed all over the dirt road there, but it kept running admirably. When I saw the oil, I switched the engine off and some construction workers towed me to a nearby parking area.
There I surveyed the damage and decided there was no way to fix the huge hole in the oil pan with what I had on hand. I had brought several gallons of oil, but with a huge hole in the pan, it would all leak out quickly. I hitched a ride going south. A very nice man named Roger was kind enough to give me a ride to a truckstop where I slept for the night. I camped outdoors north of the Arctic Circle, so the sun did not set at all. This is a photo of my tent.
At one point in the night, a pack of wolves approached the truckstop where I was camped. The howled and barked for a few minutes, and suddenly instinct took over. I had an intense desire to urinate. I wasn't very worried about the wolves, so I walked to a nearby tree. The wolves apparently took this as a message and stopped howling. I went back to sleep. I woke up to find some amazing clouds.
I made it back to Fairbanks, and I've been formulating a plan to get my car back. I have assembled a repair kit. It includes seven tubes of liquid steel, a powerful epoxy, sandpaper, and high temperature tape.
On Tuesday when the weather is set to clear, I will leave to rescue the falcon. For now I'm going to hang out in Fairbanks for the Independence Day fireworks.
| From 74-2011 |
The Dalton Highway was built during the construction of the Trans-Alaska oil pipeline. The pipeline is visible from the highway for most of the 300 miles north to Prudhoe Bay.
| From 74-2011 |
I crossed the Arctic Circle on land for the first time.
| From 74-2011 |
There were many wildflowers.
| From 74-2011 |
The Brooks mountain range separates the oil fields of Prudhoe Bay from the rest of Alaska to the south. Fresh snow was visible on some of these peaks.
| From 74-2011 |
| From 74-2011 |
I was warned that the Dawson Highway was dangerous. The highway is mostly gravel but also mostly mud/dirt in some places. I made it through these parts just fine, without even a flat tire for which I was doubly-prepared. It was the giant rock in the middle of the road in a construction zone that smashed the falcon's oil pan. Its oil spewed all over the dirt road there, but it kept running admirably. When I saw the oil, I switched the engine off and some construction workers towed me to a nearby parking area.
There I surveyed the damage and decided there was no way to fix the huge hole in the oil pan with what I had on hand. I had brought several gallons of oil, but with a huge hole in the pan, it would all leak out quickly. I hitched a ride going south. A very nice man named Roger was kind enough to give me a ride to a truckstop where I slept for the night. I camped outdoors north of the Arctic Circle, so the sun did not set at all. This is a photo of my tent.
| From 74-2011 |
At one point in the night, a pack of wolves approached the truckstop where I was camped. The howled and barked for a few minutes, and suddenly instinct took over. I had an intense desire to urinate. I wasn't very worried about the wolves, so I walked to a nearby tree. The wolves apparently took this as a message and stopped howling. I went back to sleep. I woke up to find some amazing clouds.
| From 74-2011 |
I made it back to Fairbanks, and I've been formulating a plan to get my car back. I have assembled a repair kit. It includes seven tubes of liquid steel, a powerful epoxy, sandpaper, and high temperature tape.
| From 74-2011 |
On Tuesday when the weather is set to clear, I will leave to rescue the falcon. For now I'm going to hang out in Fairbanks for the Independence Day fireworks.
Friday, July 1, 2011
Day Seventeen: Leaving for Prudhoe Bay
This morning I went back to Action Auto and picked up a spare tire for my car. They loaned it to me for free, asking only that I promise to return it or pay them $50 if I use it. I like that. I also consider this a sign that I should be on my way to Prudhoe Bay today. Don't expect any updates for a while. The Dalton highway north is a gravel road with very few towns along the way.
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